• A highly palatable pellet promotes consistent intake and prevents sorting of ingredients. I've been trying to find a ration balancer that will work for both my easy keeper, and the two mini mules.
I feed weighed grass hay, this year it's a broke mix, has a little alfalfa, and I found a timothy grass head... once I started with Nutrient Empower Balance, I liked it, the horses liked it... but it stopped being available locally. So, when the NEB stopped being available, I switched to ADM Stay Strong.
The equines really like it, but my riding horse's towline has dropped off (maybe because i's only 10% protein? ), though the rest of him is... ahem... not thin, and the mini mule that's out with him has gotten rather rotund.
I do like TC products, but I'm pretty sure it's going to cost close to the Nutrient EX. This particular mule is on long-term stall rest for a serious injury and has lost weight due to stress (despite free choice hay), so I *really* need to keep her eating her supplements.
So, for two yearling mini mules and an easy keeper horse, what do you think the best ration balancer would be: My BO fought me tooth and nail about it saying how it's too high in protein.
Some individuals will slow down their growth rate at 6 to 12 months, while others continue to grow rapidly. It is important to feed the horse’s physiological growth rate, not necessarily its chronological age.
Many yearlings grow as fast as weaklings, and must be fed a diet to support such a growth rate in a sound manner. A common belief is that high protein diets can cause developmental orthopedic disease (D.O.D.).
This can be accomplished by feeding a ration balancer designed for the forage being fed at recommended levels. Then, if more calories are needed for body condition, we can add a fat supplement or complimentary low NSC product.
This approach might be slightly more expensive in cost per day, but can save many times the cost in veterinary bills and lost sales value due to D.O.D. The requirements for crude protein, lysine, calcium and phosphorous increase faster than the energy requirement.
There is evidence that copper levels 3-4 times higher and zinc levels 2-3 times higher than the current Nutrient Requirements of Horses (NRC, 2007) recommendations may help alleviate the incidence of D.O.D in many situations, especially programs with faster-growing horses. We believe that low copper and zinc levels are a major contributor to D.O.D.
And must be addressed from the 1st trimester of pregnancy until the resultant foal has ceased growing. The concentrate (grain) component of the diet should be carefully chosen to complement the forage (hay and pasture) source, with particular attention given to the calcium to phosphorus ratio in the total diet.
The ideal calcium to phosphorous ratio in the total diet of growing horses is between 1:1 and 2:1. Growing horses consuming forage sources composed of 50% or greater alfalfa or other legumes should be fed a concentrate specifically designed to balance the nutrient profile of legumes.
Young, growing horses require a specially designed diet to meet their unique needs. With many poorly designed feeds, horses may have to be fed more to meet the requirements of non-calorie nutrients, thereby developing excess body condition, which can aggravate D.O.D.
Try to keep young, growing horses in moderate flesh, with a body score of 5-6, and monitor body weight with a scale or weight tape every 2-4 weeks, so adjustments can be made as growth rate increases or decreases. Make sure the total diet (forage and concentrate combined) is balanced for the weaning and yearling.
D. Consult a qualified EQUINE nutritionist to help balance diets and adjust to problem situations. Young horses need good-quality feeds to meet their nutrient requirements for growth, as well as free-choice exercise in large paddocks.
Oats are often the cheapest source of energy for young horses and are best fed crushed to weaklings because their teeth are not fully developed, and they will have trouble breaking open whole grains. Young green grass or clover pasture contains 15–20% crude protein, but this amount falls rapidly as the plants begin flowering and start to seed.
Linseed meal is relatively low in lysine and is not a good source of protein for growing horses, although its high oil content will produce a bloom on the coat. Trace minerals such as copper, zinc, manganese, and selenium are important components in the diet for most growing horses.
They need to be supplied in the right quantities and ratios in commercial feeds formulated for young horses. To meet the commercial growth requirements of young horses, you may have to feed them less roughage than desired for optimal digestive function.
Therefore, you must use good-quality chaff or hay to maximize the utilization of the fibrous feed in meeting the energy requirements, and also decrease the amount of starch the weaning has to be fed. Lucerne or clover hay will also supply higher intakes of protein and calcium as well as fiber, so they are often preferred for growing horses.
These feeds have higher protein, amino acid and mineral levels to supply the needs of the growing horse. If you have great quality pasture or are feeding breeds with a good metabolism, such as warm bloods, quarter horses, draft breeds or ponies, a feed balancer pellet or a concentrate such as Bristol Legend is often the best approach.
Stud Feed Balancer improves the amount of nutrients a horse can extract from his total diet (forage and concentrate) in three ways:- ii) The pure, protected yeast probiotic in Stud Feed Balancer optimizes the digestion of fiber in the hind gut, allowing the horse to gain more benefit from the diet.
Research has shown that the specific yeast used by Topped significantly improves both total feed and fiber digestibility in the horse. iii) Another useful yeast product in Stud Feed Balancer, called a prebiotic, is manna oligosaccharides (MOS).
This all means that breeding stock can receive optimum nutrition from reduced levels of hard feed, with many resulting benefits. Stud Feed Balancer greatly improves hoof, skin and coat quality.
600g Topped Stud Feed Balancer (‘Non-Heating’, for e.g. condition, fertility, hoof quality, digestion and utilization). He was barn kept and fed on sheep pellets for the first year of his life (apart from being with mum obviously).
At the moment I have him on D&H sure grow, D&H Alfalfa, Ready mash with barley rings added to it, D&H quiet with some soda oil. As long as you have calculated the right calcium: phosphorous ratio that's all that's needed plus a bit extra which the sure grow will provide.
D&H sure grow is a great balancer for young stock and should provide all the its and mins for a growing body. I got him, and he was basically wild, he was extremely underweight and his condition was beyond shocking.
Make sure he gains condition (not weight) over time as his system will already be quite stressed if he has been malnourished or has had a worm burden. A sudden surge in glucose is proven to cause joint damage and digestive disorders later.
Just make sure he is free of worms and parasites, up to date with jabs, keep adding the sure grow and if you think you need any sort of grain for condition, use dampened oats at a low ratio to begin with as it has a higher digestible fiber content and will be digested slower, without any fizz (contrary to popular belief) whatsoever. Less is more at this age and if you push on too much you risk OCD/DID or other joint problems as he grows.
That's why the general advice from Kentucky Equine Research (you can google OCD and KER) and is to not overfeed a young horse especially high starch. Also, the research into racehorses does show increased risk of DID and OCD and also ulcers to grain fed young stock.
She did lose weight at one point and I just gave her sprouted oats but not for long. Summer is the time to gradually increase his condition and grass is by far the best way. Feeding a lot of cereals as the other posters have said can cause problems not just now but later on in life.
He was barn kept and fed on sheep pellets for the first year of his life (apart from being with mum obviously). At the moment I have him on D&H sure grow, D&H Alfalfa, Ready mash with barley rings added to it, D&H quiet with some soda oil.
Like all forums there's conflicting advice etc, but I Jeff don't want to be feeding him something which will cause further issues later on in life. You don't say if your pony is currently underweight, if he's now in goodish body condition then good grass is really all he needs, and you can give him a balancer if you're worried.
It's tempting to look out and see a poor looking youngster and think you need to pump him full of starch. I didn't mean your advice is conflicting, I just mean if other people come on and say stuff that contradicts what you guys have been saying.
Most natives are good doers and therefore need little “hard” food. It may also be worth having a blood test to ascertain if there are any underlying problems. Fibre foods are best as they contain little/no sugar.
Most of my ponies at the moment get a token handful of collapses free chaff with micronized linseed. Hi PolaroidPonyIf you look at my album of Chip on my profile page you'll see I've been through a very similar thing.
Chip is a quarter horse and was 2yrs old when I bought him directly from the stud and, well, you can see the pictures... Chip was fed that with alphabet, micronized linseed and unmolested chop.
I'm presuming due to eating bark high up off trees as that would tie in with the overdeveloped muscles under his neck). In total, I think I just used two bags of that to give him a “pick me up” before gradually switching him over to my planned feed of Pro Balance, linseed and chop.
In winter, he also got Speediest and Cool stance as he mainly lived out with ad lib hay. Hopefully the pictures show how well he looks now on really a simple regime and tiny bucket feed to get his minerals.