Best Flooring To Put Down On Uneven Subfloor

Earl Hamilton
• Sunday, 15 November, 2020
• 12 min read

Uneven flooring in your house might not feel comfortable beneath your feet. Note in your head these checklists before choosing the flooring type for that particular uneven flooring.

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If your choice is not flexible, you can give it a trick by having a floating floor. However, a floating floor requires a string plank or tile, so it doesn’t crack someday.

This kind of installation method is necessary for you to understand before you make up your decision. Engineered wood is constructed of real hardwood on the top of the surface, but synthetic elements down as the base.

Also, it is strong enough to withstand the bumpy surface under the base layer. Nevertheless, floating flooring causes loud sound because it has that air and some space due to the original surface’s wavy and bumpy texture.

Just like how it sounds, luxury vinyl appears in plank and tile. Both are floating flooring with a click method at the edge of each plank and tile installed on the uneven flooring in your house.

Online LET and LAP, sheet vinyl comes in a roll. For common cases like the bathroom or others, it is okay to have a thin sheet vinyl.

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However, if you’re looking for sheet vinyl to be installed on an uneven floor, I recommend you to choose the best quality. This way, you are required to make a compound to smoothen the uneven floor surface.

Your uneven floor surface becomes even by covering it with even laminate planks. Therefore, you have to be extra careful because once the water warp in; it could be flooding underneath the planks.

Flooding water in such a closed space is not going to be good for your hygiene and health. However, linoleum flooring is more difficult to cut if you have to adjust some sheets for your room.

Linoleum sheets and tiles work very well on an uneven floor surface. You need to do that even periodically to maintain a good took and resistance towards water and scratches.

Finally, linoleum flooring, either in tiles or sheets, cannot fully camouflage the uneven one’s wavy and bumpy surface. You can use a carpet pad and stick it to the uneven surface, especially in the cavity or the bottom part from the bumps.

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This could prevent the bumpy and wavy form to be back later as the carpet gets older. On the other hand, if you consider the best quality in a flexible flooring type, you could get a better feeling down beneath your feet.

Therefore, it is important to consider the installation, strength, and flexibility in such high quality. Allan Bryce I like to work with friends and people that are as passionate about what they do as I am.

Some of the choices that need to be made are structural, some are general design and still others are flow and the visual perspectives that you are trying to achieve. But when it comes to deciding on which floor to select, it isn’t solely a design or preference that drives your choice.

The most common reasons are either a basement or other concrete based surfaces -or- a remodel that has various levels of subflooring. Because a floating floor installation isn’t fastened firmly to the subfloor, it doesn’t show the imperfections of the underpayment.

Engineered wood flooring is popular because it is made with a top layer of real hardwood, giving it the optimal appearance and characteristics of solid wood flooring, without needing to be fixed to the subfloor surface. Because engineered hardwood has a top layer of actual wood, you are able to get the best of both worlds.

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Luxury vinyl tile is the newest floating floor option that has dramatically grown in both popularity and appreciation over the last several years. Priced similarly to laminate flooring and less expensive than engineered, many consumers are selecting luxury vinyl tile due to its superior look and texture over laminate, at a lower cost than engineered hardwood.

Laminate flooring was first invented and made popular by the Swedish company, Ergo in 1977. Laminate floors are made using a layered, synthetic composite construction of four main materials.

As one of the least expensive wood-like floating floor choices, it is a very popular option for homeowners. Many floating floors also have different subfloor preparation requirements, and some vary depending on the application of the installation.

For example, a vapor barrier may be suggested in a basement installation of floating floors with some brands, while others require an underpayment material in every application. The unique installation applications that floating floors afford homeowners make it the best option for uneven flooring surfaces.

This makes carpet one of the most ideal options: it's cheap, easy to install, and very attractive. For only slightly uneven flooring, sturdy materials such as vinyl plank can also be used for full coverage.

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For very uneven flooring, laminate sheets or tiles may be a better bet. This material is more flexible, but may reveal the imperfections in the surface.

Gradual bends in the floor surface will be fairly easy to install over, but sharp corners will damage nearly any flooring option over time. Because of this, you may need to plan head and assume that your floor will need to be replaced fairly frequently.

In order to properly install hardwood on uneven flooring, the floor itself has to be smoothed out. Natural stone is even more susceptible to this type of breakage.

Uneven flooring can potentially indicate foundation issues -- especially if the floor is becoming more uneven over time. Tearing out and replacing the subfloor is costly and laborious, so most homeowners prefer to skip it whenever possible.

If your floor is less than perfect, your best flooring options are carpet, vinyl or linoleum. If your floor has only minor issues, hardwood may be an option for you after a bit of prep work.

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You can roll, bend, fold and buckle carpet any way you like and can do so easily. To get the best results, use a carpet pad and glue it to the floor in areas around dips and valleys.

Available in sheets and tiles, vinyl flooring is easy to install and works well on uneven surfaces. Although not as flexible as carpet, vinyl still conforms easily to the shape of the floor underneath it.

Vinyl gets glued to the floor and then smoothed over the surfaces where it will easily cover and mold to small peaks and valleys. It's generally best to avoid ceramic and other tiles on uneven floors because they are very rigid.

Tiles can't mold themselves into the shape of the floor beneath and are much more likely to break when stepped on. If your floor is uneven, but your heart is set on tile, there are two ways to pull it off.

Floor leveling materials are available at your local hardware store and can save you a lot of work. Once the compound dries, you can install hardwood or large tiles on your newly evened floor.

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This trick doesn't work with severely damaged floors, however, as most leveling compounds are not made to exceed more than 1/2 inch in thickness. The floor may roll a marble and looks to slope now that the carpet has been removed.

Is it a visual and light reflective concern or will the vinyl crack over use in a period of 3-5 years? Get an overview of the process of creating a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes from experienced mason Mike Shaffer.

My guess is a lot--probably even the majority--of laminate jobs installed exceed this. However, I do have a section with 1/4 or 3/8” (the result of a high joist, which makes either side low).

The question is: how to raise those other sides up (sanding down the OSB over that part of the joist is an option, but a lot of work, and could compromise the floor;require re-screwing/nailing). Note: a lot of this stuff isn't wood approved and could make a fallacious mess around the walls 2) Build up with roofing tiles and/or tar paper.

These products are not intended for interior installs and I have no idea how safe they are. 3) Install 1/4” ply where needed and feather its edges with a belt sander.

basement flooring vinyl plank luxury tile wood dark floors planks oak looks karndean hardwood strip worst google
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If significant wood material need be removed, a $70 electric planer will chew it up like nobody's business. I didn't do this; instead I've so far ground down some extra thickness on the top of some OSB (not so much it's appreciably weakening anything).

All self-leveling compounds, from TEC, to Henry/Arden, to Custom call for priming + lath/mesh + leveler, and all have a minimum thickness when used on wood. It is great in one layer, but multiple layers may make a diaper sound Nail down floors like hardwood seem to work well with felt and shingles, and many pros use them in that scenario.

4) The only trowelable patching compound I've found that specifically says OSB is approved is TEC Feather finish or silk finish or something--can't quite remember exactly--after a layer of Regard. Unable to find any, I called TEC and the guy said he thought Speediness would be highly similar due to its large polymer level, though the box does say OSB isn't recommended (exterior ply is fine).

This isn't exterior, but it means it can tolerate some wetting during construction, so I doubt any patch compounds would cause it to swell in their short curing time (several hours). I applied to the rough side of OSB after keying it in with a trowel tightly.

I had zero swelling and after it cured tried flexing the OSB, hammering it, plying it off. I found it easy enough to work with, very similar to ceramic tile twinset, though maybe only 20 min or so pot time.

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My guess is that most people ignore that spec, I know I did in my own house. Obvious humps or dips should be addressed, spending 40 hours perfecting a sub floor is absurd. Edit: What you wrote just clicked (it's early).

I'm not sure I would trust tar or rosin paper under laminate flooring since it isn't nailed down. You could rent a large flooring belt sander and use low grit paper to sand it down.

I'm not sure I would trust tar or rosin paper under laminate flooring since it isn't nailed down. You could rent a large flooring belt sander and use low grit paper to sand it down.

They smash when boards are placed on as a test, and I've found many people online complaining of the same with multiple layers of felt. Going to either replace the thicker parts with 1/4” ply or use the self leveling compound with primer from Home Depot.

My main concern with that stuff is it's going to be a real pain by the walls preventing it from leaking down. Finally, multiple thinner layers of sub flooring can alleviate problems.

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My house has OSB and some high trusses, and I got through the whole thing fast using a combination of speed finish and the belt sander. Going to take a stab at using some vinyl I have left over because it's dense and probably not as loud as the felt.

You could add about 1/16" by buying some self-stick vinyl tiles (12" x12”) and putting them where your low area is. I recently pulled some laminate that had been down 6 years to change up some rooms, and it was fine.

Most people online recommend the same kind of stuff even though the instructions on these products are not quite being used per specifications. I am certainly not ruling it out and prefer something troweled to a leveler for those side wall bits.

I mean does it really matter if this stuff cracks into dust underneath the laminate anyway? Finally, multiple thinner layers of sub flooring can alleviate problems.

Replace it! Your life of the floor depends on the subfloor, so you are heading in the right direction! My mom got “industrial” quality done at her business, and its pure garbage...warping all over the place etc.

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I have 1000 square feet, including exterior walls that rest on the subfloor. Redoing all the subfloor would be thousands in labor, and I'm positive a professional floored wouldn't do it if they saw these floors.

It's not like an ocean of waviness I asked some others in my neighborhood who got laminate and the worst I found was somebody with a badly crowned single joist who had to redo it, but otherwise they all threw the floor on and 3/16” tolerance over 10' be damned. The guy at lows said it was an unreasonable specification and to not bother being so careful, for what it's worth.

There is literally not a single product on the market intended to level OSB in the manner I desire. Self-leveler, even with a primer, from all manufacturers, wants a mesh lath put in place and a minimum height.

I'm pretty sure a lot of “pros” ignore this requirement and use it to fill low spots on OSB anyway. I did find one interesting and extremely expensive product called Day flexible floor patch.

It's only for plywood and concrete, but I tested some on my exposure 1 rated OSB subfloor, and it seems to work. It's also very slightly flexible and says it is a good pitcher to fill low spots for vinyl flooring (laminate should work even better than).

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As a general rule most patching compounds are not recommended for use on OSB (Oriented Strand Board) as they are often treated with water repellent coatings that can inhibit proper adhesion. , but it seems to adhere to my OSB quite well, and in any case really I don't need great adhesion; I just need something to sit under the floor and not compress excessively. The one part of my room that is really low I built up by stapling some 1/8” hardboard and 3/16” ply, then feathered the edges with the Day.

The rest of the room I'm going to probably do the same thing, or use the cement based feather edge (plywood only, but who cares), or just get to @*#(ING laying floor already like most people do and stop fretting It's interesting reading so many threads online where people ask this problem and the responses are highly varied.

The shingle/felt approach is oft-recommended, but I think only suitable for hardwood that's nailed down and holds the stuff, otherwise it just makes sounds when walked on.

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