Best Knife For Horseback Riding

Christina Perez
• Saturday, 24 October, 2020
• 7 min read

IN COMPLIANCE WITH FEDERAL STATUTES, KnifeCenter, Inc requests that you read carefully the requirements set forth below, and agree to this prior to your purchase or receipt of any automatic opening knife from our company. Walk into your local sporting goods shop in search of a decent knife and you will likely find dozens of choices.

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Go online to Cameras and you’ll find nearly 300 different models; on Bass Pro Shops, nearly the same amount. Once you take into account the various considerations of what you need the knife for and what level of performance you expect, your decision will be easier.

To a lesser extent, they may also want to consider the size of the knife ; however, for most uses, a blade between three and six inches is going to be more than adequate. Fixed-Blade Knives: Blade and handle are all built into one piece that does not move and typically is carried in a sheath.

For those people who want a knife to wear on their side in the field, a flat, compact fixed-blade is a good option, though larger styles may hang on brush and become cumbersome. If riding horseback, you never want to wear a sheath knife in the event of a fall and will want to keep the blade tucked away into a pack.

This knifes are smaller and more compact than fixed-blade models and can be worn easily and safely on the belt, as well as take up less room in a pack. These knives are good for general use around camp, the home or on the job, but for field applications should be avoided as they are too easily knocked free and lost.

There are more than a dozen blade types or point shapes available, but Buck says for practical purposes, outdoors men should concern themselves primarily with three. Clip Point: A clip-point blade has a thinner tip for an increased ability to puncture surfaces such as when making an initial cut into a hide or material.

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Trailing Point: A trailing-point blade (also called a mild drop point), falls somewhere between the clip- and drop-point styles by providing a back edge that trails upward and allows a light bladed knife a larger curve to its edge for more slicing surface. It’s ideal for field dressing and skinning as it is less likely to puncture vitals pressing against the inside of a carcass or slice through the hide when camping.

Simply find one that fits your hand size and feels comfortable and you should be good to go. For instance, stainless steel blades will not break or corrode, Buck says, but they won’t hold an edge for any length of time.

Bowden: I wanted to live, so I could vote for Trump My mother has asked for a knife to carry with her while riding /working with her horse.

Update:I should have included two pieces of information in my original question: I would go with Spider or Gerber if you want a top brand.

I like the knives with the plastic body (mine is hot yellow so it's easily found if dropped) with a pocket clip to keep it more secure. You want a locking blade and one that has a thumb hole so you can use it rather like a switch-blade, whipping it out at a moments notice if your horse's head is trapped to cut a rein or whatever.

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You want a knife not that bulky for the pocket and one that's primary job is to cut your horse loose if needed. I have used it back in camp lots of times but never in an emergency yet--touch wood.

The one I have is not a top brand but still a very serviceable knife that stays super sharp. The knife I have doesn't have a serrated blade but does have a good hoof pick.

One that has a couple blades, a hole punch and scissors can really be handy on a trail. Many horsemen I know carry Weatherman tools, kind like a Swiss army knife.

About 20 years ago I bought a “Buck Horseman's Knife from a packer and outfitters store in Cody, Wyoming. Then roughly ten years back I started getting plumb anxious and worried I'd lose the best knife I ever owned.

Another five years went by -- I was traveling a lot to do Cowboy Mounted Shooting -- I started getting' down-right paranoid about losing that knife. I started watching eBay on a daily basis, and after about two years of searching I found one at auction that was a special presentation for the employees at Purina Mills.

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“ Riding on the beach can be one of life’s greatest joys, but learn how to manage the risks before you head to the surf,” says Lair Shea, an accomplished endurance rider who owns and manages Ricochet Ridge Ranch (www.horse-vacation.com), a riding -vacation destination in Fort Bragg, California, where guests routinely ride on the beach. If you plan to ride on the beach, follow these guidelines to help ensure that you and your horse stay safe.

High, crashing waves won’t inspire calm in a horse that has never seen the ocean! On this initial visit, don’t try to get your horse into the water or urge him close to the waves.

Let him follow the other horse and stay as far from the water as he feels comfortable. Both horses and humans can get dizzy and feel “seasick” watching the waves’ surging motion.

Realize that a wave can easily knock your horse off his feet, particularly if it hits him broadside. “Beach footing differs depending upon sand composition and degree of moisture,” explains Shea.

“Sand made up of coarse, large particles doesn't pack well, creating deep footing whether it’s wet or dry. “Fine-grained sand is usually firm close to the tide line,” notes Shea.

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“On my riding vacations, we canter for about five miles on the beach, but we periodically break to a walk during this time. Shea recommends starting at a steady trot, then moving into an easy canter or lope.

“Check to make sure you still have ‘brakes’ by frequently asking your horse to come back to you, slowing his pace or shortening his stride,” Shea adds. “Wind on the beach is often strong, so make sure your helmet fits and is well-fastened,” Shea adds.

If you encounter sunbathers or people walking, don’t ride between them and the water. Realize that a wave can easily knock your horse off his feet, particularly if it hits him broadside.

For safety, Shea recommends going bareback and barefoot, as soaked saddles and boots can weigh down you and your horse. “First, keep close to the shallows in firm sand footing, letting your horse get used to waves slapping against his legs and then belly,” says Shea.

If he seems to enjoy the experience, take another diagonal track back into deeper water, letting him swim for 15 to 20 seconds. Keep most of the slack out, and be careful not to let them wind around your wrist or any part of your body.

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If you find any scrapes or abrasions, clean and treat them with antiseptic to help prevent infection, as sand and seawater can harbor bacteria. If you regularly ride on the beach, you may want to invest in Methane or nylon tack, since it can take the abuse better than leather equipment.

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