You can also clean off excess oil with some glycerin soap and elbow grease. A few coats with hydrophane, and you have a more natural and darker brown color.
Please avoid oiling any leather that covers your saddle's flocking, as the wool or fiber can soak up the oil, creating a saddle that doesn't fit and damaging the flocking. Oiling can also be a good idea if you need to bring a dry, crusty, old, dusty, shriveled up saddle or bridle back to life for decorative purposes.
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We buy it from a local grocery supply company by the case and use it on both new and used leather items. I have heard of many people using canola, peanut, vegetable, and other food oils, and they seem to work fine.
This product is made of all natural ingredients including vegetable oils and beeswax and will also waterproof the leather. In doing this over time, you create multiple layers of dirt and oil which becomes a thick film that is almost impossible to remove.
Scrub the saddle with a medium bristle brush to lift the dirt and grime out of the leather. I know it's hard to remember to oil your saddle and tack, but here is my suggestion on a system that may not make it such a big deal.
Every time you worm your horses give all your tack and saddles a good look over and wipe them down with a light coat of oil. So, I recently got one of the old persons, it's a nice color (pretty dark), but needs some tuning up.
• Horses: 4 This is more a grease than an oil, but I really like how it works:I've used it on saddles and boots. It seems to take out small scratches and doesn't leave it feeling oily.
• Horses: 2 I second the Passer Leaderbalsm, I recently bought a can of it, and I love it. • Horses: 2 I really like the Eff ax leather products, particularly their Leader Balsam.
• Horses: 3 This is more a grease than an oil, but I really like how it works:I've used it on saddles and boots. It seems to take out small scratches and doesn't leave it feeling oily.
• Horses: 2 LOL, me to, I love sitting there in the evening massaging it into the tack I'm currently working on, I'm sure it's improving my skin as well. Credit: Think stock As we all know, when cared for properly, leather is durable, strong and resilient.
If allowed becoming dirty, dry and brittle, though, its life can be drastically shortened. Barns and stables, especially those with lesson and training programs, have a lot of leather lying around.
And, as we all know, when cared for properly, leather is durable, strong and resilient. If allowed becoming dirty, dry and brittle, though, its life can be drastically shortened.
Since leather is a natural fiber, subject to damage from moisture, bacteria and high heat, it can easily break down if not protected from these elements. While there never seems to be enough hours in the day for added barn chores, keeping tack well oiled and clean can save money in the long run.
According to Cary Schwarz, a saddle maker in Salmon, Idaho, leather does better in a dry climate than a wet one because moisture and mildew are less of a problem. But regardless of climate, it is important to keep proper oil content in the leather.
“It’s always a good idea to clean a saddle or bridle before you oil it or use a conditioner,” said Schwarz. “You need to remove as much of that salt as you can, and float out the dirt particles, with saddle soap and warm water,” said Schwarz.
It might work all right on a piece of tack that never gets very dirty, but with a saddle it is very critical to float those dirt particles out. “If you use a big heavy sponge, this will get the water down into the seams and cracks, and wash some areas you can’t even see.
“Work up a good lather with the nylon bristle brush, and then flush it clean with warm water and a sponge. Leather treads on the stirrups of a western saddle need to be spotless, especially if you’ve been getting on and off in the mud, or in a pen where there might be manure.
“The wax will seal the leather much better and repel moisture,” stated Schwarz. “If a saddle or bridle hasn’t been used for a while, or has been in storage a long time, whatever oil it might have had may have dried out,” he explained.
On the label it may recommend that you heat it to about 100 to 110 degrees, and that means it should feel warm to the touch. As with oil, it’s best if both the wax and the leather are warm for optimal absorption.
“On a carved western saddle, especially, the wax product will tend to cake into the creases rather than be absorbed. If you can get some penetration with the wax-based product, then when the leather cools the wax hardens.
“After that, I use a piece of soft cloth and buff any excess wax off, so the leather won’t have a sticky finish,” he said. As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Resort Enterprises Ltd., the developers of bulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the Forums.
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